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Aperture |
Small opening. The
dials of some watches (in French: montres à guichet) have apertures in which
certain indications are given (e.g. the date, the hour,
etc). |
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Applique |
Applique or applied chapters
are numerals or symbols cut out of a sheet metal and stuck or riveted to a
dial. |
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Assembling |
Process of fitting
together the components of a movement. This was formerly done entirely by hand,
but the operations have now been largely automated. Nevertheless, the human
element is still primordial, especially for inspection and
testing. |
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Assortiment |
French term for the
parts used for making an escapement. |
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Automatic Watch |
A watch whose
mainspring is wound by the movements or accelerations of the wearer's arm. On
the basis of the principle of terrestrial attraction, a rotor turns and
transmits its energy to the spring by means of an appropriate mechanism. The
system was invented in Switzerland by Abraham-Louis
Perrelet in the 18th
century. |
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Balance |
Moving part, usually
circular, oscillating about its axis of rotation. The hairspring coupled to it
makes it swing to and fro, dividing time into exactly equal parts. Each of the
to-and-fro movements of the balance ("tick-tack") is called an "oscillation".
One oscillation is composed of two vibrations. |
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Bar,
lug |
In wristwatch-cases,
a thin metal rod fixed between the horns, for attaching the
wristlet. |
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Barrel |
Thin cylindrical box
containing the mainspring of a watch. The toothed rim of the barrel drives the
train. |
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Bridge |
Complementary part
fixed to the main plate to form the frame of a watch movement. The other parts
are mounted inside the frame (part of the "ébauche"). |
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Calibre |
Originally used to
mean the size of a watch movement, this term now denotes a type of movement
(men's calibre, automatic calibre, etc). When a calibre
number is accompanied by the manufacturer's mark, it serves as an indication of
origin. |
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(Watch-)
Case |
Container that
protects the watch-movement from dust, damp and shocks. It also gives the watch
as attractive an appearance as possible, subject to fashion and the taste of the
public. |
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Casing
(up) |
Process of inserting
and fixing a watch movement into its case. |
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Chablon |
French term for a
watch movement (not including the dial and hands), of which all or part of the
components are not assembled. |
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Chronograph |
Watch or other
apparatus with two independent time systems: one indicates the time of day, and
the other measures brief intervals of time. Counters registering seconds,
minutes and even hours can be started and stopped as desired. It is therefore
possible to measure the exact duration of a phenomenon. Not to be confused with
the timer, the stopwatch and the chronometer. |
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Chronometer |
Watch which has
undergone a series of precision tests in an official institute. The requirements
are very severe: a few seconds per day in the most unfavourable temperature conditions (for mechanical watches)
and positions that are ordinarily encountered. |
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Crown |
Knurled knob located
on the outside of a watch case and used for winding the mainspring. It is also
used for setting the hands to the right time and for correcting thecalendar indications. |
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Date |
Ordinal number
referring to a day of the month: the 10th February. Date-watch: watch indicating
the date, the month and sometimes the year and the phases of the moon. Also
called a calendar-watch or calendar. Perpetual calendar: watch indicating leap
years as well as the date. |
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Dial |
Indicating "face" or
plate of metal or other material, bearing various markings to show, in ordinary
watches and clocks, the hours, minutes and seconds. Dials vary verymuch in shape, decoration, material, etc. The
indications are given by means of numerals, divisions or symbols of various
types. |
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Direct-drive |
Refers to a
seconds-hand that moves forwards in little jerks. Trotteuse, French term for a direct-drive seconds-hand,
especially a centre seconds-hand. |
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Display |
Indication of time or
other data, either by means of hands moving over a dial (analogue display) or by
means of numerals appearing in one or more windows (digital or numerical
display); these numerals may be completed by alphabetical indications
(alphanumerical display) or by signs of any other kind. Example: 12.05 MO 12.3 =
12 hours, 5 minutes, Monday 12th March. Such displays can be obtained by mechanicalor electronic
means. |
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Ebauche |
French term (but
commonly used in English-speaking countries) for a movement blank, i.e. an
incomplete watch movement which is sold as a set of loose parts, comprising the
main plate, the bridges, the train, the winding and setting mechanism and the
regulator. The timing system, the escapement and the mainspring, however, are
not parts of the "ébauche". |
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Escapement |
Set of parts (escape
wheel, lever, roller) which converts the rotary motion
of the train into to-and-fro motion (the
balance). |
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Etablissage |
French term for the
method of manufacturing watches and/or movements by assembling their various
components. It generally includes the following operations: receipt, inspection
and stocking of the "ébauche", the regulating elements
and the other parts of the movement and of the make-up; assembling; springing
and timing; fitting the dial and hands; casing; final inspection before packing
and dispatching. |
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Etablisseur |
French term for a
watch factory which is engaged only in assembling watches, without itself
producing the components, which it buys from specialist
suppliers. |
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Factory,
works |
In the Swiss watch
industry, the term manufacture is used of a factory in which watches are
manufactured almost completely, as distinct from an "atelier de terminage", which is concerned only with assembling, timing,
fitting the hands and casing. |
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Fly-back Hand |
In a chronograph with
analogue display, an additional centre second hand which can remain superposed
on the other one as it moves, can be stopped independently and then made to "fly
back" so as to catch up with the other hand, can be stopped and reset to zero
together with the other hand. In chronographs with numerical display, a
"function" having the same effect. |
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Glass, Crystal |
Thin plate of glass
or transparent synthetic material, for protecting the dials of watches, clocks,
etc. |
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Hand |
Indicator, usually made of a
thin, light piece of metal, very variable in form, which moves over a graduated
dial or scale. Watches usually have three hands showing the hours, minutes and
seconds. |
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Jewel |
Bearing, endstone or pallet used for reducing friction. Generally
made of synthetic material, except for the precious or semi-precious stones
(ruby, sapphire, garnet) which are sometimes used in
"de luxe" watches. |
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Main Plate |
Base plate on which
all the other parts of a watch movement are mounted (part of the "ébauche"). |
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Mainspring |
The driving spring of
a watch or clock, contained in the barrel. |
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Manufacture d'horlogerie |
French term for a
watch factory which itself produces the components (particularly the "ébauches") needed for the manufacture of its products
(watches, alarm and desk clocks, etc). |
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Marine Chronometer |
Highly accurate
mechanical or electronic timekeeper enclosed in a box (hence the term box
chronometer), used for determining the longitude on board ship.Marine chronometers with mechanical movements are
mounted on gimbals so that they remain in the horizontal position is necessary
for their precision. |
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Middle (of watch-case) |
Middle part of the
case, in which the movement is fitted. |
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Movement |
Assembly consisting
of the principal elements and mechanisms of a watch or clock: the winding and
setting mechanism, the mainspring, the train, the escapement, the regulating
elements. "Anatomically", the movement consists of the "ébauche", the regulating elements and the other
components. |
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Regulating Elements |
Set of parts
comprising the regulating system (sprung balance) and the escapement (escape
wheel, lever and roller). |
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Repeater |
Watch that strikes
the hours by means of a mechanism operated by a push-piece or bolt. There are
various types of repeaters. Quarter-repeater: sounding a low note for the hours
and a "ding-dong" for each of the quarters; Five-minute repeater: striking the
hours, quarters and five-minute periods after the quarter; Minute-repeater:
striking the hours, quarters and minutes; Grande sonnerie (grand strike): striking the hours and quarters
automatically and repeating when a push-piece is pressed down; Chiming repeater:
in which the quarters are struck on three or four gongs of different
pitch. |
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Rotor |
Half-disc of heavy
metal, which is made to rotate inside the case of an automatic watch by the
energy produced by the movements of the wearer's arm. Its weight tends always to
bring it back to the vertical position. Demultiplied
by a specially designed device, its rotations continually wind the mainspring of
the watch. |
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Second |
Basic unit of time
(abbr. s or sec), corresponding to one 86,000th part of the mean solar day, i.e.
the duration of rotation, about its own axis, of an ideal Earth describing a
circle round the Sun in one year, at a constant speed and in the plane of the
Equator. After the Second World War, atomic clocks became so accurate that they
could demonstrate the infinitesimal irregularities (a few hundreths of a second per year) of the Earth's rotation
about its own axis. It was then decided to redefine the reference standard; this
was done by the 13th General Conference on Weights and Measures in 1967, in the
following terms: "The second is the duration of 9,192,631,770 periods of the
radiation corresponding to the transition between the two hyperfine levels of
the fundamental state of the atom of caesium 133".
Conventionally, the second is subdivised into tenths,
hundredths, thousendths (milliseconds), millionths
(microseconds), thousand-millionths (nanoseconds) and billionths
(picoseconds). |
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Setting (to
time) |
Process of bringing
the hands of a watch or clock to the position corresponding to the exact
time. |
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Shock Absorber |
Resilient bearing
which, in a watch, is intended to take up the shocks received by the balance
staff and thus protects its delicate pivots from
damage. |
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Skeleton |
Skeleton watch: watch
in which the case and various parts of the movement are of transparent material,
enabling the main parts of the watch to be seen. |
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Stopwatch |
Timekeeping
instrument which can be used for measuring intervals of time. When this is done,
the time display is partly or wholly lost until the hands are
reset. |
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Striking-work, Striking- Mechanism |
In a watch or clock,
automatic or hand-operated mechanism that strikes the hours, etc, or rings an
alarm-bell (v. repeater). |
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Tachometer |
Instrument for
measuring speed. In watchmaking, a timer or
chronograph with a graduated dial on which speed can be read off in kilometres per hour or some other unit (see
timer). |
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Terminage |
French term denoting
the process of assembling watch parts for the account of a
producer. |
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Termineur |
French term for an
independent watchmaker (or workshop) engaged in assembling watches, either
wholly or in part, for the account of an "établisseur"
or a "manufacture", who supply the necessary loose
parts. |
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Timer |
Instrument used for
registering intervals of time (durations, brief times), without any indication
of the time of day. |
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Tourbillon |
Device invented to
eliminate errors of rate in the vertical positions. It consists of a mobile
carriage or cage carrying all the parts of the escapement, with the balance in
the centre. The escape pinion turns about the fixed fourth wheel. The case makes
one revolution per minute, thus annulling errors of rate in the vertical
positions. |
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Vibration |
Movement of a
pendulum or other oscillating element, limited by two consecutive extreme
positions. The balance of a mechanical watch generally makes five or six
vibrations per second (i.e. 18,000 or 21,600 per hour), but that of a
high-frequency watch may make seven, eight or even ten vibrations per second
(i.e. 25,200, 28,800 or 36, 000 per hour). |
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Watch Material |
Loose parts,
components either for producing watches or for repairing them. In the latter
case, they are often called "spare parts" or "repair
material". |
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Water Resistant |
Made to prevent water
from entering. Water-resistant case, watch-case whose joints are made to prevent
moisture from entering. |
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Winding |
Operation consisting
in tightening the mainspring of a watch. This can be done by hand (by means of
the crown) or automatically (by means of a rotor, which is caused to swing by
the movements of the wearer's
arm). |
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